Quick answer
How long does concrete take to set? Initial set typically happens 2 to 4 hours after placement, final set 4 to 8 hours, and full cure 28 days. You can usually walk on a slab at 24 to 48 hours, but structural design strength is reached at 28 days under proper moisture and temperature.
- Initial set: 2–4 hours; final set: 4–8 hours; design strength: 28 days.
- Walk on slabs at 24–48 hours; drive on driveways at 7 days; full cure before heavy loads.
- Cold slows set and cure; hot accelerates set but risks plastic shrinkage cracking.
- Curing method and moisture retention matter more than any single admixture.
How Long Does Concrete Take to Set? The Short Answer
Under normal conditions — formwork and subgrade between 60°F and 70°F, no accelerators or retarders, and a typical water-cement ratio around 0.45 to 0.50 — concrete reaches initial set in about 2 to 4 hours after placement and final set in roughly 4 to 8 hours. The surface is usually hard enough to walk on in 6 to 12 hours, and you can typically finish, trowel, or saw-cut control joints in 12 to 24 hours. Those are the numbers most crews plan around when someone asks how long does concrete take to set.
Setting is not curing. Setting is the loss of plasticity — the mix stiffens from a fluid you can screed into a rigid solid you can stand on. Curing is the weeks-long period after that, where hydration continues and the concrete builds strength. A slab that has set is not a slab that has cured, and how long for concrete to cure depends on the same variables that drive set time.
For the full-strength timeline, standard practice reflected in ACI 318 is that concrete reaches roughly 70% of its design strength at 7 days and essentially full design strength at 28 days. A 4,000 psi mix is not a 4,000 psi slab on day three. A concrete curing compound applied right after finishing helps the slab hold moisture through that window, which matters most in hot, dry, or windy conditions.
Every one of those numbers shifts with mix design, water-cement ratio, ambient and concrete temperature, humidity, wind speed, and admixtures. Cold weather can double or triple the set times; hot, dry, windy weather can cut them roughly in half and pull moisture out of the surface before curing even starts.
The practical takeaway: you can often finish and strip forms within a day, but you cannot load the slab, park on it, or apply a sealer for days to weeks. If you are pricing that schedule — form stripping, cure time, and the labor hours tied to each — a concrete estimating service can turn the plan set into line items you can actually bid. For scheduling the pour sequence against the rest of the project, construction scheduling services keep the cure time built into the critical path.
Set times assume normal weather and a standard mix. If your pour is in January or in 100°F sun, treat the 2–4 hour and 4–8 hour windows as starting points, not commitments.
Concrete Set vs Cure: Two Different Timelines
Setting is the chemical transition from plastic to rigid. When portland cement (specified under ASTM C150) meets water, hydration begins immediately and the mix stiffens over a few hours. That is the concrete setting time window — 2 to 4 hours to initial set, 4 to 8 hours to final set under normal conditions.
Curing is what happens after setting. Hydration does not stop when the concrete hardens; it continues for days and weeks, provided moisture and temperature stay in a workable range. Concrete cure time is measured in days, not hours, and the strength you are paying for is built during that window.
This is why a slab can be set and still be weak. If the surface dries out, or the concrete freezes before hydration is far enough along, the reaction stalls. You get a hard, set slab that never reaches its design strength. The chemical reaction needs water present — not just time on a clock.
Confusing concrete set vs cure is the root of the most common field errors: finishing too early and tearing the surface, loading a slab that is set but not strong, or letting the surface dry before curing begins. Each of those failures shows up later as cracking, dusting, or low break results.
Treat them as two separate schedules on your bar chart. Setting drives your finishing and form-stripping dates. Curing drives when the slab can be loaded, sealed, or handed to the next trade. When you are building that schedule into a bid, a concrete takeoff and estimating team can help you line up cure durations with the sequences that depend on them.
A slab that is set is not a slab that is cured. Never let a finishing schedule or a loading date be driven by the set clock alone.
Concrete Set and Cure Timeline at a Glance
Use this table as a field reference for a typical slab or structural pour. Times assume normal weather (60–70°F), Type I/II cement, no accelerators or retarders, and a water-cement ratio of about 0.45–0.50.
| Stage | Typical Time (60–70°F) | What You Can Do | What You Cannot Do |
|---|---|---|---|
| Initial set | 2–4 hrs | Screed, float, edge | Walk on, finish, or cut |
| Final set | 4–8 hrs | Begin troweling once bleed water is gone | Load, strip forms, or seal |
| Walk-on / light foot traffic | 6–12 hrs | Foot traffic, light tools | Drive vehicles or place materials |
| Saw-cut control joints | 12–24 hrs | Cut joints before random cracking starts | Cut too early and ravel the edge |
| Form stripping | 1–7 days (by member) | Strip vertical forms, then soffit forms | Strip before strength allows |
| 7-day strength | ~7 days | Strip most formwork, begin light loading | Assume full design strength |
| 28-day design strength | ~28 days | Full structural loading | Skip curing or protection |
| Sealer / coating | 28+ days | Apply sealer once slab is dry | Seal a damp slab |
| Full vehicle loading | 7–28 days (by slab) | Park or drive on slab | Load before strength allows |
Cold weather can double or triple these times; hot weather can cut them roughly in half. Form stripping times vary by member — a wall form and a suspended soffit do not come down on the same day. When you are tying these durations to a pour schedule, a concrete estimating service can help you carry the right cure and stripping allowances into your bid.
Print this table and post it in the site trailer. The two columns that cause the most rework are the ones on the right.
What Controls Setting Time: Mix Design and Water-Cement Ratio
The water-cement ratio is the single biggest driver of both set time and ultimate strength. More water means slower set, lower concrete strength psi, and more shrinkage. A mix at 0.45 w/c will set faster and reach higher strength than the same materials at 0.60 w/c.
Cement type changes the curve. Type I is general purpose. Type II has moderate sulfate resistance. Type III is high-early cement that sets and gains strength faster, useful for cold weather or fast-track schedules. Type V is sulfate-resistant for aggressive soils. Your concrete mix ratio and cement selection should match the exposure and schedule.
Admixtures shift set time deliberately. An accelerator such as calcium chloride or a non-chloride accelerator shortens set. A retarder such as sugars or lignosulfonates extends it for hot weather or long hauls. Air entrainment improves freeze-thaw durability but does not change set time much. Each admixture has a dosage range; overdosing a retarder can delay set by hours.
Slump is a workability measure, not a strength measure. A 4-inch slump mix behaves differently from a 6-inch slump mix even at the same water-cement ratio if a plasticizer is used. Aggregate gradation, cement content in bags per cubic yard, and supplementary cementitious materials like fly ash or slag all shift the set and strength curve. Fly ash and slag typically slow early strength gain, which matters for formwork stripping schedules.
When you price concrete, the mix design is a cost line, not a footnote. A concrete estimating service can help you tie mix requirements to unit costs and avoid over- or under-specifying.
If the spec calls for Type III or a non-chloride accelerator, confirm the supplier can batch it before you commit to a fast-track schedule.
Concrete Curing Temperature: Hot Weather vs Cold Weather
Hot weather concreting is generally defined as ambient air above 90°F or concrete temperature above 85°F. Under those conditions, set time can drop to 1–2 hours, plastic shrinkage cracking risk rises, and curing must start immediately. ACI 305 covers hot weather practices, including cooling materials, using retarders, and scheduling pours at night.
Cold weather concreting starts when air or concrete temperature falls below 40°F. Hydration slows dramatically, and below freezing the free water in the mix can freeze and destroy the paste. ACI 306 requires heated enclosures, insulating blankets, or accelerators to protect the concrete until it reaches sufficient strength.
A useful rule of thumb: for every 10°F drop in concrete temperature, set time roughly doubles; for every 10°F rise, it roughly halves. This is why a 70°F pour may set in 4 hours and a 50°F pour may take 8 hours or more.
Evaporation rate matters as much as temperature. When it exceeds 0.2 lb/ft²/hr, you need fog spray, windbreaks, or an evaporation retarder. The ACI 308 / Menzel formula uses air temp, concrete temp, humidity, and wind speed to estimate that rate. Curing compound application timing is also temperature-sensitive: apply as soon as the sheen disappears, before the surface dries.
Temperature swings also affect your schedule and cost. A concrete estimating service can help you account for weather protection, heating, and cooling in your bid.
A 10°F swing in concrete temperature can double or halve your set window — plan finishing crews and curing start times around the actual mix temperature, not the air temperature.
Concrete Curing Methods: Which One Fits Your Job
The main concrete curing methods are water curing (ponding, wet burlap, sprinklers), saturated coverings, plastic sheeting, curing compound (ASTM C309), insulating blankets, and internal curing. Each method trades labor, water, and performance differently.
Curing compound is the most common choice for flatwork because it is fast and cheap. It must be applied at the specified coverage rate, typically 200 ft²/gal, and it cannot be used where a coating or topping will be applied unless it is a dissipating type. Read the product data sheet before you spray.
Wet curing gives the best strength and durability but requires labor and water management. It is common on bridge decks, industrial slabs, and parking structures where the concrete strength psi and long-term durability justify the cost. Saturated coverings and ponding are variations on the same idea.
Plastic sheeting is low-cost and effective for flatwork, but it can leave mottled surfaces and must be secured against wind. Insulating blankets are used in cold weather to retain heat, not to add moisture. Internal curing uses presoaked lightweight aggregate to supply water from inside the mix, useful for low w/c mixes.
Curing duration should match the specification. ACI 308 recommends 7 days for Type I cement, or until 70% of design strength is reached. Method choice ties directly to cost and schedule: curing compound is lower labor, wet curing is higher labor but better performance. A concrete estimating service can help you price the method the spec actually requires.
If a floor coating or topping is coming later, confirm whether the curing compound is dissipating type — a standard resin-based compound can prevent adhesion.
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Concrete Strength Gain: What 7-Day and 28-Day PSI Really Mean
Specified concrete strength is written as f'c, the 28-day compressive strength. Residential flatwork usually calls for 2,500–4,000 psi, commercial structural members 4,000–5,000 psi, and high-rise columns 6,000 psi and up. That number is the design benchmark, not a promise that the concrete stops getting stronger on day 29.
Under normal conditions with Type I portland cement, concrete reaches roughly 70% of design strength at 7 days, about 85% at 14 days, and 100% at 28 days. Type III high-early cement can hit 70% in about 3 days. The curve is driven by hydration: cement particles react with water and form calcium silicate hydrate, which is what actually carries load. On international drawings you will see the same value in MPa, the metric equivalent, where 1 MPa ≈ 145 psi, so 28 MPa is about 4,000 psi.
When you test cylinders, know which story you are hearing. Standard-cured cylinders, cured in a moist room per ASTM C31 and tested per ASTM C39, show the potential of the mix. Field-cured cylinders sit next to the pour and show in-place strength, which is what matters for form removal and opening to traffic. A field cylinder that lags the standard cylinder usually means curing was poor, not that the mix was bad.
That leads to the failure mode worth repeating: strength gain stops if curing stops. A slab that dries out at day 3 may never reach design strength, even though the 28-day break looks acceptable on paper. If you are pricing a pour, account for curing labor and materials in the concrete estimating services scope rather than treating it as a field afterthought.
A 7-day break is a progress check, not an acceptance test. Acceptance is normally based on 28-day results, with ACI 301 and ACI 318 defining the evaluation rules.
Concrete Slab Cure Time vs Footing and Formwork Schedules
A 4-inch slab on grade and a 24-inch footing hydrate at the same chemical rate, but they do not get released at the same time. Mass, reinforcement, and the loads that follow drive the schedule, so the concrete slab cure time you plan for is really a structural release date, not a chemistry date.
Form stripping is the first release. Vertical wall forms typically come off in 1–2 days. Slab soffit forms usually stay 3–7 days, and post-tensioned slabs follow the engineer's stressing schedule, which may require 3–5 days or a specific cylinder break before tendons are stressed. Footings can often be backfilled after 24–48 hours if they are not carrying structure yet, but foundation walls need about 7 days before backfill to avoid cracking from lateral soil pressure.
Reinforcement does not change set time, but it changes what the member can do once set. Dowels, chairs, and mat placement control cover, develop length, and how soon the element can take load. A footing with a proper rebar mat can be loaded sooner than an unreinforced one of the same thickness. If you are pricing reinforcement, rebar estimating services cover the bar lists, lap splices, and accessories that feed the placing schedule.
Control joints are the other clock in the same pour. Saw-cut joints on a slab should go in within 12–24 hours, before random cracking starts. Early-entry saws cut within 1–4 hours while the concrete is still green. Miss that window and you are not curing a slab, you are repairing one. For takeoff and pricing on the full slab and footing scope, concrete estimating services cover formwork, reinforcement, and finishes in one package.
Never strip forms on a clock alone. Confirm the required break, the ambient temperature, and the engineer's release criteria before crews load the member.
Concrete Drying Time: When Can You Seal, Coat, or Floor Over It?
Curing and drying are different processes and they run on different clocks. Curing keeps water in the slab so hydration can continue. Drying removes excess water so the surface can accept a coating, adhesive, or flooring. A slab can be fully cured at 28 days and still be too wet to receive finish.
The common rule of thumb is about 1 month of drying per inch of thickness under good conditions, so a 4-inch slab needs roughly 4 months. Treat that as a planning number, not a schedule date. Mix design, ambient humidity, slab thickness, and whether a vapor barrier sits below the slab all move the result. A slab on a vapor retarder dries from the top only, which can double the time.
The correct way to decide is testing, not a calendar. Moisture vapor emission rate testing per ASTM F1869 and in-situ relative humidity testing per ASTM F2170 give the numbers flooring manufacturers actually accept. Most resilient and wood flooring systems have specific limits, and the manufacturer's written requirement governs.
Sealers and curing compounds complicate the picture because they can trap moisture. If a coating or flooring will follow, use a dissipating curing compound that breaks down on its own, or a curing method that leaves no residue. Installing flooring too early causes adhesive failure, blistering, and callbacks that cost more than the test. When you price the finish package, flooring estimating services should carry moisture testing and any mitigation as line items, and the base slab scope belongs in concrete estimating services.
Document the MVER and RH test results with the date, location, and test method. If a floor fails later, that record is what protects you.
Worked Example: Scheduling a 5,000 SF Slab Pour
Example only. A 5,000 SF slab on grade, 5 inches thick, 4,000 psi mix, 0.48 water-cement ratio, placed at 70°F with no accelerators or retarders. Actual times will shift with mix design, weather, and specification.
Volume takeoff.
- Volume = 5,000 SF × (5 ÷ 12) ft = 5,000 × 0.4167 = 2,083 cubic feet
- 2,083 ÷ 27 = 77.2 cubic yards
- Add 5% waste: 77.2 × 1.05 = 81 cubic yards to order
Pour-day schedule.
- 7:00 AM — place concrete. Trucks arrive, chute or pump, screed to grade.
- 10:00–11:00 AM — initial set. At 70°F with a 0.48 water-cement ratio, initial set typically falls in this window. Bleed water should be gone before you float.
- 1:00 PM — finish. Float, trowel, and edge the slab.
- 1:00 PM — apply curing compound. Immediately after finishing, before the surface dries. This is a concrete curing method that locks in moisture for hydration, and it starts the clock on how long for concrete to cure.
- 7:00–10:00 PM — saw-cut control joints. 12–15 hours after placement, while the concrete is hard enough not to ravel but green enough to cut. A control joint cut too late lets random cracks form.
- 24 hours — strip edge forms.
- 7 days — strength check. A 4,000 psi mix typically reaches about 70% of design strength at 7 days: 0.70 × 4,000 = 2,800 psi. That is enough to walk on and often enough to strip forms, but not to park a truck.
- 28 days — design strength. 4,000 psi. This is the concrete strength psi the spec calls for.
Curing cost. Curing compound at 200 ft²/gal: 5,000 ÷ 200 = 25 gallons. At $30–$50/gal, material runs $750–$1,250, before labor. If you are building a concrete curing cost into a bid, a concrete estimating service can price the compound, labor, and formwork against your actual takeoff. For a broader look at how these line items roll into a full bid, see construction cost estimating.
Use a concrete cure calculator or ACI 308 maturity curves when the schedule is tight. The concrete mix ratio and ambient temperature drive every number above, and a quantity takeoff service can verify the volumes before you order. For accurate material quantities on your next pour, consider a material takeoff service.
Order 5–10% over the calculated volume. Running short mid-pour creates cold joints that no curing method can fix.
Common Mistakes That Ruin Set and Cure
- Finishing too early. Floating while bleed water is still on the surface pushes water into the paste and creates a weak, dusty top layer. Wait until the sheen disappears.
- Finishing too late. Once the concrete setting time has passed, the surface is too stiff to float or broom. You get the finish you can get, not the one you specified.
- Saw-cutting control joints too late. In hot weather, a control joint cut past 24 hours often does nothing. The slab cracks where it wants, not where you cut.
- Letting the surface dry before curing. A dry crust stops hydration at the surface and leaves a weak skin, even if the core reaches strength. Start curing immediately after finishing.
- Adding water on site to raise slump. Every gallon added raises the water-cement ratio, lowers strength, and extends concrete cure time. If the mix is too stiff, talk to the batch plant, not the hose.
- Skipping cure in cold weather. Concrete that freezes before it sets never reaches design strength. Cold weather concreting requires insulation, heated enclosures, or accelerators, not hope.
- Loading the slab too early. A 7-day-old slab may feel hard but is only at roughly 70% of design strength. Parking a loaded truck on it can crack it.
Each of these mistakes shows up in claims and rework. A concrete estimating service can price the curing labor and protection so it is in the bid, not absorbed later.
If you only fix one habit, fix this one: never add water at the truck without batch plant approval.
Concrete Curing for Contractors: A Field Checklist
- Before the pour — verify the mix. Confirm mix design, water-cement ratio, admixtures, and target slump against the spec. Check the forecast for temperature, wind, and humidity, because all three change set time.
- Before the pour — stage curing materials. Curing compound, plastic sheeting, wet burlap, or heaters should be on site before the first truck arrives. A construction scheduling service can sequence the pour and cure windows in the baseline.
- During the pour — watch the slump. Test slump at the truck. Do not add water without written approval from the engineer or batch plant.
- During the pour — start finishing when bleed water disappears. Not before.
- After the pour — cure immediately. Apply curing compound or start wet cure as soon as finishing is done. Do not let the surface dry.
- After the pour — saw-cut control joints in the window. Typically 12–24 hours, sooner in hot weather.
- After the pour — protect from rain and freezing. Rain raises the water-cement ratio at the surface; freezing stops hydration.
- Document everything. Record placement time, concrete temperature, ambient temperature, curing method, and any delays. This record protects you if strength or cracking is disputed.
- Estimate strength when the schedule is tight. Use a concrete cure calculator or the ACI 308 maturity method instead of guessing.
If you need the curing scope priced into the bid, a concrete estimating service can carry the compound, labor, and protection as line items.
The ACI 308 maturity method lets you estimate in-place strength from the temperature history. It is the right tool when form stripping or loading is on the critical path.
Concrete Curing Cost and How It Hits Your Estimate
Concrete curing cost is small next to the concrete itself, but leaving it out of a bid is how you end up eating the difference. The line has four parts: material, labor, water, and cover.
Curing compound runs about $30–$50 per gallon and covers roughly 200 square feet per gallon, so a 5,000 SF slab needs about 25 gallons, or $750–$1,250 in material. Wet curing adds burlap, plastic sheeting, and water; a 100-foot soaker hose and a roll of 6-mil poly are cheap, but the labor to place and strip them is not. Cold-weather blankets are the expensive case: insulated blankets cost more per square foot than compound and usually get rented, not bought.
Labor is the number estimators underprice. Figure 1–2 labor hours per 1,000 SF for a spray-applied compound, more if you are laying and removing wet cover. At a loaded rate of $45–$75 per hour, that is roughly $0.05–$0.15 per square foot for compound and labor on a slab. Wet curing with burlap and plastic typically runs $0.15–$0.35 per square foot, because you are paying to place cover, keep it wet, and pull it.
In CSI MasterFormat Division 03, curing is normally a line item under 03 30 00 Cast-in-Place Concrete, and larger specs break it out under 03 39 00 Concrete Curing. Either way, it belongs in your concrete estimating services takeoff. Omitting it does not save the job money; it produces a change order or a failed inspection. Compare that to replacing a slab that cured wrong or froze: replacement commonly runs $8–$15 per square foot, or $40,000–$75,000 on a 5,000 SF pour. For a broader view of how these line items roll into a bid, see construction cost estimating.
On cold-weather pours, blanket rental and monitoring time can push curing cost past the compound line by a wide margin. Price the method, not just the material.
When to Get a Professional Concrete Estimate or Takeoff
Once flatwork passes a few hundred square feet, ordering concrete by eye gets expensive in both directions. Over-order and you pay for trucks you cannot use; under-order and you pay a short-load charge plus a cold joint where the pour stopped. A quantity takeoff from the drawings removes that guesswork.
Structural work raises the stakes. Footings, grade beams, elevated slabs, and multi-story frames need formwork, rebar, concrete, and curing priced as separate lines, because each one has its own waste factor, productivity rate, and crew. A bid built from a single blended square-foot number will lose to a competitor who broke the work down, or win it and lose money.
Get a professional estimator when you need bid-ready numbers in 24–48 hours, or when you are holding three subcontractor quotes and want a second opinion on which one is real. Scope Precision Estimate offers same-day quotes on most projects and bid-ready takeoffs in 48 hours, with 20% off for new clients. Start with concrete estimating services for flatwork and cast-in-place, rebar estimating services when reinforcement is a major cost driver, and foundation estimating services for footings, mats, and below-grade work.
Send the full set, including structural notes and the general notes sheet. Curing requirements, mix design, and finish tolerances live there, and they change the price.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take for concrete to be hard enough to walk on?
For most residential and commercial slabs, you can walk on concrete 24 to 48 hours after placement, once final set has occurred and the surface can take foot traffic without marring. Cold weather can push this to 48 to 72 hours. Use plywood runways for foot traffic on fresh slabs to avoid scuffing. For heavy equipment or loaded movement, wait until the concrete reaches adequate strength, often 7 days or per the project specification.
Can I pour concrete in cold weather?
Yes, with precautions. ACI 306 covers cold-weather concreting. Concrete should be placed at a temperature above 40°F and protected from freezing until it reaches about 500 psi, typically 24 to 48 hours. Use heated water or aggregates, insulating blankets, and windbreaks. Never place on frozen subgrade. Accelerators help but do not replace protection. If you are pricing winter pours, factor in heating and protection costs through a service like our concrete estimating services.
What happens if concrete freezes before it cures?
If fresh concrete freezes before it reaches roughly 500 psi, the mixing water turns to ice, expands, and disrupts the cement paste before it can gain strength. The result is permanently reduced strength, surface scaling, and a crumbly, non-durable slab. Damage is not recoverable by later curing. Protect concrete from freezing for at least the first 24 to 48 hours, and longer in cold conditions, using insulated blankets or enclosures.
How long before I can drive on a new concrete driveway?
For a typical 4-inch residential driveway at 3,500 to 4,000 psi, wait at least 7 days before driving a passenger car, and 28 days before heavy trucks, RVs, or construction equipment. Some contractors allow light vehicles at 7 days if the mix reaches early strength. Cold weather extends these times. Always confirm with the mix design and local practice, and keep heavy loads off until the concrete reaches design strength.
Does concrete cure faster in hot weather?
Hot weather accelerates setting and early strength gain, but it also speeds moisture loss, which can stall curing and cause plastic shrinkage cracks. Concrete placed above 90°F may set in 1 to 2 hours, leaving little time to finish. Use ice, chilled water, retarders, shade, windbreaks, and evaporation retarders. Start curing immediately after finishing. Faster early set does not mean faster full cure; the 28-day strength still depends on moisture and temperature.
What is the difference between concrete setting and curing?
Setting is the physical change from plastic to rigid, driven by cement hydration. Initial set is 2 to 4 hours; final set is 4 to 8 hours. Curing is the longer chemical process where cement continues to hydrate and gain strength, typically over 28 days. Setting is about when you can finish or walk on the surface. Curing is about whether the concrete reaches its design strength and durability. Both matter, but curing is what protects long-term performance.
How soon can I saw-cut control joints in concrete?
Saw-cut control joints should be cut as soon as the concrete is hard enough to walk on without damaging the surface, typically 4 to 12 hours after finishing. In hot weather, cut at 4 to 6 hours; in cold weather, 12 to 24 hours. The goal is to cut before random shrinkage cracks form, usually within the first 24 hours. Depth should be about one-quarter of the slab thickness. Late cuts are one of the most common causes of uncontrolled cracking.
Do I need to wet concrete while it cures?
Yes, moisture retention is the core of curing. Wet curing, using ponding, wet burlap, or sprinklers, keeps the surface saturated and supports strength gain. If wet curing is not practical, use curing compounds, plastic sheeting, or saturated blankets. Start curing as soon as the surface can take it without damage, and keep it moist for at least 7 days, or 14 days for high-early-strength or low water-cement ratio mixes. Skipping curing is the fastest way to lose design strength.